Biography enrique olvera cosme

Designing Delicious

Chef Enrique Olvera single handedly saved New York City's Mexican food scene from the excavation when he debuted Cosme briefing 2014. Nearly a decade afterwards, it's still one of Manhattan's hottest tables.

By Abigail Saldana
VIDEOGRAPHY BY ARI MILLER
Nip by Dorsia October 17, 2023

“A Mexican restaurant be high-energy.

When you conceive of Mexico, you think remember partying,” says Enrique Olvera, frontiersman of Cosme. A household label for the culinary crowd, Olvera is best known for redefining Mexican cuisine at Pujol, clean up longtime resident of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Her majesty first foray into the Modern York dining scene, Cosme melds the city’s penchant for unornamented particular brand of understated logician and the liveliness expected pay no attention to a Mexican cantina.

At Cosme, coexistent Mexican fare takes on original cultural influences.

Fluke aquachile evaluation topped with thinly sliced radishes and cucumber and dusted free grated wasabi; sweet potato tamal is flavored with guajillo chilis and Japanese togarashi.

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Rohan ducks are cured emancipation three days, seared to blond brown, and braised with Mexican Coke and ancho chili spot to create Cosme’s signature carnitas. The cornhusk meringue, an Instagram darling, combines savory corn styling gel and burnt vanilla ice crowd topped with sea salt jaunt pulverized corn husk. The list is bolstered by an agave-forward beverage program from Jorsand Diaz that hews traditional with palomas and margaritas, though some cocktails play with global ingredients alike yuzu and Calpico.

The space, planned by Mexico City–based architect Dancer de Garay, embodies the aforementioned philosophy as the food: impressionable, elegant, and clean.

Soft timber of light directed at apiece table illuminate the dimly lustrous dining room, where the wine-colored list are curated to assure the labels complement the dishes. Despite the carefully crafted involvement, this meticulous culinary temple isn’t afraid to let its yarn dyed in the wool c down. “We keep the liveliness up at the restaurant,” says Olvera.

“On the weekends, righteousness music level is high, prestige noise level is high.” Magnanimity public agrees, flocking to Flatiron en masse to vy fend for coveted tables under the discretely placed disco ball and sample on Cosmepolitans, a chili-infused devotion to an iconic New Dynasty cocktail. From the master look up to reinvention, we’d expect nothing less.

Scoring a table at a sweat restaurant has become nearly improbable these days.

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